Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat

I finished my Spring coat! Waffle Patterns’ Pepernoot Coat. I love it.

I kind of feel like this review is 100% fair to the real pattern. The thing about grading up two sizes and doing an FBA is that I can’t comment much on how the garment went together or how it fit, because any inconsistencies may be a result of the grading and flat pattern alterations. I’m not an expert at either so there were some things that didn’t match up perfectly as I sewed everything up. My pattern alterations did work out and I quite like the fit. You can read more about what I did for fit here. That said, I do think the size range is small. Waffle Patterns only goes up to a size 48, which has a 43.3 inch bust. I get it’s the standard size range for most indie pattern companies and for the major pattern companies, but this is a plus sized sewing blog and if I don’t push for a wider size range then it may never happen. There is such a limited selection for good coat patterns for plus sized people and Waffle Patterns is all about the coat. Out of 17 patterns, 9 are coat patterns. They all have such great details, too, and well-thought out designs. I have my eye on the Tosti utility jacket next. With such great patterns, it’s a shame that a portion of the 23K+ Bloglovin followers of the Curvy Sewing Collective aren’t able to use the patterns without major modifications like I had to make for my Pepernoot coat.

I can comment that the instructions were really good and there is a sewalong to also help you with anything confusing. It’s not a beginner pattern, though. I don’t think I would have been able to make this without one coat under my belt and a lot of experience. It’s listed as an advanced pattern and that is accurate.


I completely fucked up the hood insertion. Basically instead of following these instructions, I sandwiched the hood in between the lining and the main coat. That means the zipper can’t be inserted properly between all the layers. I made it work by ripping back some stitches at the edge of the hood on either side and then inserted it that way. I’d already graded my seams so ripping out the entire hood seemed like a bad plan. It worked out, though, and the zipper went in okay. Phew.

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I decided not to add zippers to the pockets. It just struck me as impractical after a while, because I would probably just want the zippers open all the time. I also wasn’t keen on the zippers I had picked up. In my head, they would have brass teeth and brown zipper tape, but I only found silver teeth and black zipper tape locally. My front zipper was the same, but it’s hidden by the front band so it doesn’t bother me. I made the pockets open at the sides. You are supposed to sew the pockets on before the zipper. I judged the placement on my own comfort (how long my arms are…short fyi… and where I would want them to sit).


Once the zipper was inserted, the placement is thrown off by the width of the band. I pinned it back and checked how it would look at half-width and it worked a lot better. I cut off the edge of the band and ripped back some stitches on the top and bottom and pressed it a bunch and then topstitched the edge closed. I love the way it looks now and it doesn’t throw balance of the pockets off now. This probably would not have been an issue if I didn’t use contrasting fabric for the pockets and band. In the same fabric, it would not have stood out as an issue.


The other thing I decided to add after the fact was buttonholes to the sleeve tabs and a band across the waist that fastens with buttons/buttonholes. It adds definition to the waist and gives the coat more interest. The buttonholes are not a requirement in the design, but I really like the look. The waist band mirrors the style of the sleeve tabs. I used those as a guide and then made two long stripes the width of my waist less the front bit. I interfaced one side with medium weight interfacing and then sewed the two pieces together with an opening left in the centre to pull the ends through to the right side. Then I pressed it like crazy and topstitched the entire thing. Topstitching closed up the opening in the centre. I then added buttonholes and sewed the buttons on to the coat. For now, the waistband is tacked at the back, which droops down a slight bit. When I get back and resolve the lining issue, I will add belt loops to keep it in place.


I love the buttons and they match perfectly with the coat.

You’ll notice I made no attempt to pattern match. The contrasting brown wool (which has pink and grey stripes in it! Hello perfect match!) helps disguise the lack of pattern matching. Not completely, but enough that I like it. The pink plaid is a brushed cotton and some areas were stretching out from the grain. Thanks JoAnn Fabrics (not!). Not the greatest quality material, sadly. I interfaced all pieces to get it more stable, except I ran out for the skirt pieces. It worked out okay, but after the trip I think I will go back and add interfacing to the skirt pieces, because the pockets pull at the fabric a bit. I also plan on adding some of the brown fabric on the other side to reinforce the pockets. I’ll just be careful while I am away to not pull on the pockets too much. That means I will have to rip out the stitches that keep the lining in place at the hem, but that will work out for a different reason. The lining also doesn’t seem long enough and pulls up the hem of the coat a bit. That will be fixed as well when I get back by shortening the hem of the coat. I actually think a shorter length would work really well on me. My skirts hit almost right at the hem of the coat and quite frankly I like a little more of them showing under the coat.

The lining is a light mint green poly satin. Of course, I got shoes and a pashmina scarf to match the lining, because I’m a dork.


Originally, I wanted to add a removable fur trim to the hood, but now that I look at it I’m not sure I want that. I think it’s too much for the coat. The fur I bought will definitely be used in the future. This project reinforced how far I’ve come in the past couple of years in sewing skills. I look at the first coat I made and it’s not nearly as good quality as this coat. I think it’s time to make another winter coat. I’ll start planning that out closer to the end of the summer, but I think it might be the Tosti coat, because I just cannot get it out of my head…

In spite of the tone of this entry, I had fun making the coat. I will not be making a coat before a big trip like this again. I was pretty ambitious making it so close to the day we leave…and sort of stressed myself out when I tried it on and didn’t adore it and then decided to narrow the zipper band and add the waistband. But I’m glad I did it!

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I adore my Pepernoot coat and can’t wait to get to Amsterdam in it! We leave soon so sooooon. Things will be quiet here for a bit until I get back and then I will have all sorts to share with you about the trip! I’ll be able to show you my fabric from the fabric market in Utrecht and Kantje Boord (they sell lingerie fabrics!). All the chocolate in Bruges from our day trip to Belgium. Tulips, windmills, and the flower parade in the Netherlands. The craziness of King’s Day (we brought orange to wear!). The neat architecture of Rotterdam. Medieval sites in Estonia. The Duke’s Castle in Germany. The Hermitage and Catherine’s Palace in St. Petersburg. The sea fortress Suomenlinna in Helsinki. The palaces and castles of Stockholm and Copenhagen. Our cruise ship shenanigans. And all the foooooood, the glorious food. And so much more! I can’t wait!

TL:DR Review

  • Pattern: Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat
  • Pros: Drafted really well. Lovely design elements. Hood! 😀
  • Cons: The size range is quite limited in my opinion. I want to try the other Waffle Patterns, like the Tosti jacket, but grading up is a hassle. I do wish more pattern companies would expand sizing and Waffle Patterns has such great designs and more advanced patterns than 90% of the companies out there. The amount of paper in the pdf is ridiculous. You may want to get a copy shop print of this done so you don’t have to go through the pain of putting all that together.
  • Make again?: Yes. I would make it again and try some other design elements (secret pocket in the lining) and the zippered pockets.
  • Rating: pink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdwhite-star-black-md4/5 stars

Sew Pretty in Pink Makes a Coat, pt. 3: Construction, notes, and review


I thought revealing the coat would make me stop procrastinating on the construction post, but meh. I’m a horrible procrastinator.

Just a note, you may see some repeat pictures from the previous post like the header picture and there are a lot of pictures from instagram in here, because I used it to document my progress with the hashtag #sewprettyinpinkmakesacoat. There are also pictures that I took along the way and didn’t share until now.

You can read about my muslin and fitting changes in pt. 1 of this series.


Constructing a coat is process of patience. I did a huge amount of research and read and read and then read some more. I found two blogs to be extremely useful:

  1. Cashmerette’s Top Tips for Sewing your First Coat entry: A great link list and resource list. Although I didn’t have everything on the list, it gave me great insight into the process. It’s a fabulous source and I highly recommend it.
  2. Gertie’s Vlogs on V8346 construction: Although I didn’t watch every video, I found the ones I did watch to be very useful. Unfortunately, the instructions for V8346 are not the super greatest imho. Gertie’s vlogs are a great resource if you plan on tackling this pattern.

I referred to both of these blogs frequently during the process.

My fabric was thrifted herringbone wool for the main fabric, wool boucle contrast, fake leather accents on the upper collar and elbow patches, and polar fleece for the pockets and lining.



I interfaced all the wool pieces, drafted a back stay with hair canvas as per Gertie’s instructions, and cut the hair canvas on the bias for reinforcing the shoulder seams (Gertie has a vlog on this). The thread I used for the entire coat until I ran out was heavy duty Gutermann’s heavy duty thread. I was a little scared to use it on my machine as I had heard of others having issues with this type of thread getting caught in their machine and killing it. Luckily, Jane Eyre handled it really well (after I got the tension right that is). The thread difference meant having to up the tension like crazy.

Originally, I had a different plan for the sleeves that involved a style like the larger picture below.



I made this in microsoft paint to ask a friend what to do. If the pleather I had was not as stiff and thick, this design may have worked, but sadly the large cuff was unmovable and really unflattering I didn’t even sew it to the shoulder. I tried it on before and was really unhappy with it. The next day, I visited the Toronto Fashion District (the place where dreams are made) and was on the hunt for a fabric that matched the wine colour in the herringbone. My friend, Selina, the same friend who I created the picture for and ask advice from on a regular basis (read: daily basis as we work together) spotted the most gorgeous wool boucle. In the store next door, we had found a wool that matched the brown colour in the herringbone and I was about to buy it. Selina convinced me to go next door and I am glad I listened! It’s really just the perfect fabric for it!

I decided to not create a cuff at all out of the stiff pleather and just draft elbow patches. Hahah, draft. More like, awkwardly freehand cutting ovals out of the pleather pieces that were the cuffs. Anyway, it worked…sort of.


I had to sew on the pleather patches while the coat was flat and unhemmed. I tried my best. I did, but they sit below the elbow sadly. 😦 There is no going back, but if I decide to make elbow patches like this again I will incorporate that into the muslin. That’s what I should have done, but I didn’t think about it and then they were on the coat. Sigh!


You can see they don’t quite hit the elbow here:


The other frustrating thing about these f—— patches was that I sewed up one and it was horrible. The pleather is vinyl and unfortunately I do not own a teflon foot so it didn’t go well. The second time I sewed the elbow patch, I used masking tape on the top and it worked much better, but the masking tape is still there in spots (in spots I can see, but you might not unless you sniff my elbow and that’s weird, dude, weird). Also, it wasn’t completely perfect to use that as there is a stretch in the pleather and well… there are bumps. I don’t hate the patches and will live with the flaws. They were just horrible to sew and are not perfect.


I forgot to mention I used a new tailor’s ham I got for Christmas from my mom to press the curved princess seams! It made such a difference in the seam and made it sit perfectly. I highly recommend getting one of these, especially for curved seams. Originally I had asked for it, because bra making really requires being able to press the seam on a curved surface, but I can see how useful this will be for many projects.

For the facing, I had to sew a little piece on the top of each facing to make the full piece and cut it in a different direction.


I had a shortage of fabric and didn’t get enough of the contrast wool boucle to cut the facings from that, because it was $22 a yard! Which is probably a great price, but I was low on money due to Christmas purchases.  You can see the seam at the top next to the pin where I joined the two pieces, if you look closely. Since it was the facing and no one would see it, I didn’t cut it to pattern match, but it worked out and looks entirely intentional.

The lining installation went really well. You basically sew along the collar and facing with all of the layers right sides together for a really beautiful finish.

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The thread did snag a few times in the pleather section. I used a leather needle for this part and heavier needles for the whole coat; I also changed (read: broke) my needle twice… I was very impressed with Jane Eyre doing all of that in spite of some breakage from the thread snagging.

When Jane Eyre snags the thread, it makes a horrible noise like Rochester just revealed his wife in the attic and I think it’s dead. But it always comes back to life, as Jane Eyre is very strong-willed, and sews like a dream after I rethread and clean out the threads. Make sure you clean your machine a lot when you are sewing with wool. There was a ton of lint. Every time the thread snagged, I opened up the machine and cleaned it out and it was always like a lint trap in there. So much lint from wool and heavy duty thread!

Once I sewed the lining, I didn’t hem the coat right away, because I was planning on doing buttons. I am not sure if it was the buttons I chose or the whole look, but it just didn’t look right. I still have to add some hooks or snaps to the inside to make sure the coat stays closed. I decided to not put buttons on the coat and make a belt out of the pleather, which promptly got thrown out. The pleather was doing a weird thing where it was filling with air and making a puffed belt in spite of top-stitching! Have you ever heard of that?! I tossed that shit out so fast and grabbed a belt from my closet that I never use. I made belt loops that I bar tacked to the side seams above the pockets. Then I hand sewed the hem and the lining to the hem and admired my finished coat. YAY!!!



Look how happy I am!



This is the weird thing that happens when you go for your favourite stance (hands on the hips, an Andie-classic stance) and your camera clicks the picture. It sort of looks like I am doing a move from Hip Hop Abs where you pump the floor…. Oh Shaun T…



Yes, I’ve done many of these videos. It’s a ridiculous, but fun exercise and Shaun T. is ridiculous but fun. I used to do them three days after work for a couple of years and had rock hard abs under my fleshy layers. Ha! But I do miss those days…


  1. Once I put the finished coat on, I immediately went for the pockets and was disappointed to see that, because of the FBA, they were too far back. Future versions will have welt pockets that are in the side panel of the princess seam.
  2. Another note about the pockets: The hip length version is drafted so the bottom of the pockets is basically reaching to the bottom of the hem. This seems so poorly designed, especially when the lining reaches just above the hem. I basically had to sew the bottom of the pocket into the hem to hide it. There is a half inch taken out of the bottom curve of the pocket. It’s like they drafted the pockets for the longer versions and never tested the hip-length version for that.
  3. The instructions are oddly detailed in some areas and not at all in others. Like hemming the lining or the pleat at the back of the coat. Luckily, I had Gertie’s vlogs to help, but as a coat-making virgin, it was tough going purely on the instructions.
  4. Sewing with fake leather is horrible and I won’t do it again without a teflon foot for my machine. I’ve sewn with leather before and, if it weren’t for the need to have this coat weatherproof, I would have made the details with real leather. I imagine there are huge differences in quality of pleather, but this one was really not good. I have a bit left and kind of want to toss it completely. I’ve never done that with fabric before. I have scraps that I don’t throw away, but this stuff just made me angry. I won’t say never again, but I will say that next time I do it will be with much better quality stuff.
  5. Keep your iron far far far away from pleather! I had a few spots that are slightly melted when I pressed the seems. It was three inches away and slightly melted it. Ugh, I hate pleather.
  6. Clean your machine when sewing with wool coating! There will be tons of lint and your machine will be a lot happier if you clean it out at the end of each sewing session or if the thread snags. Lint it bad for your machine. Check out this tutorial on cleaning your machine.

New Review Section

I don’t often talk about ratings or reviews in this blog, but I’ve decided to add a rating system to the first time I post about a particular pattern. I find it to be a useful summary of the pattern for those who don’t want to read every little detail, especially for long entries like this one. A TL:DR (Too Long: Didn’t Read) review for those with short attention spans, like me! (Oooh shiny!) I’ve also added tags so you can look at all the patterns with the same rating (e.g., 5 stars). Of course, this is the first and only one tagged like that, but all future first-time sewed patterns will have the rating tag on it. I may go back and tag past patterns for this, but not put in the TL:DR section, because wooooooooork. Tell me what you think about this new system.

TL:DR Review

  • Pattern: Vogue 8346
  • Pros: Gorgeous princess seams and a flattering flare at the waist for a lovely shape and lots of length options. I really love this pattern a lot.
  • Cons: There is a huge, crazy, enormous amount of ease in the pattern. I needed it for the bulk of this coat with the fleece lining, but be aware of it and muslin any future variations, too: thinner fabric means you want a tighter fit to your coat, since the seams are meant to hug your curves. Instructions could be better (Gertie’s video tutorials on this coat are much better than the instructions included with the pattern); welt pockets would be much better than in-seam pockets in my opinion. The pattern is marked as easy so welt pockets would have been outside of this, but future versions will have them. Also, for the hip-length version, the pockets end where the hem ends on the coat. I don’t like the design for that.
  • Make again?: Absolutely! With self-drafted welt pockets, though! I’m actually considering making it out of a blue satin brocade I have in my stash for a really fitted fancy knee-length jacket… I can’t get this idea out of my mind, which generally means it will happen.
  • Rating: pink-star-black-md pink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdwhite-star-black-md4/5 stars

Sew Pretty in Pink Makes a Coat, pt. 1: The Muslin

Sew Pretty in Pink Makes a Coat, pt. 2: The Reveal

Sew Pretty in Pink Makes a Coat, pt.2: The Reveal

Originally, I was going to make a construction notes post first and make you wait for the reveal, but I am not a cruel person and it just seemed mean to not reveal the coat and make you read through a post about the construction and then not post the coat reveal until another day! I just couldn’t do it. It actually prevented me from completing the post on the construction!

So, screw it! Here she is! My Vogue 8346!

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Phew, I feel better now!

I love it. I’ll sing more praises for this coat later, but I adore it. And it is super warm. We have extreme cold weather warnings here in Toronto (feels like -27 Celsius/-16 Fahrenheit) and I’m toasty warm in my coat. My face is frozen solid, though!

Some details:

  • Main fabric: thrifted wool herringbone ($8 with an original price tag at $58)
  • Contrast fabric in sleeves and lower collar: wool bouclè ($22)
  • Contrast fabric on elbow patches/upper collar: Faux leather from Joann fabrics ($5)
  • Lining: Polar fleece
  • Belt: From my closet (thrifted long ago)
  • Pin: Gift from a friend
  • Hat: Andi Satterlund cable brim hat made by my mother
  • Mittens: Custom made by my mother
  • Skirt: Cake Pavlova (blogged here)
  • Top: Black turtleneck sweater purchased forever ago from Ricki’s (Similar)
  • Leggings: Walmart (Similar)
  • Boots: Mark’s Work Warehouse

I’ll save all the notes, construction, praise, wonderment, frustration, etc. for pt. 3!

Sew Pretty in Pink Makes a Coat, pt. 1: The Muslin

Sew Pretty in Pink Makes a Coat, pt. 1: The Muslin

Do you ever start a project, believe it’s going really well, get really confident, and then slowly get less and less confident as things begin to go terribly wrong and then get more confident when you fix all the fitting issues?

Yeah, that’s what making a coat is like for me so far: an emotional roller coaster. It’s not done yet (not even close), but this is the tale about the muslin and my fabric plan.

I started off so well. My pattern was a match made in heaven with my fabric.


View A of Vogue 8346 is basically made with the same fabric I picked up at the thrift store for ridiculously cheap.


As I was looking through my patterns, I saw this and was like: yes, yes, that is my coat, yes, my precious. Originally, I had a few others in mind (check out my Fall Sewing Plans post for more info on that).

Before I go all Gollum on you about the wonderful precious coat that still isn’t made, I will get back to my muslin and my plan.

I have about two and a half yards of the herringbone wool and the pattern called for 3 yards. So, this meant that I had to be careful about cutting the fabric and had to use more contrasting fabric and not worry about pattern matching. I never really pattern match so that last one was not really an issue. Sorry to all you pattern-matching people. I’m a horrible pattern mismatcher.

During a trip to Rochester, NY, for my stepson’s hockey tournament, I picked up 2 yards of a dark brown pleather at Joann fabrics for a steal. There was a major sale that meant I was at the store for two hours waiting to get my fabric cut. I picked up a bunch of other stuff that I will blog about as I get it done. I basically got something like 12 yards of fabric for $50 USD. I left the store three hours later pretty happy.

My plan was to make the sleeves out of the pleather. I also got some burgundy blizzard fleece from Joann’s, which I will be using as the lining. I know you are supposed to use shiny fabric for the lining, but it’s Canada and I want more than two weeks wear out of a coat that I made for myself. Therefore, it has to be warm. Very warm.

In a crazy change of plans, because I kept seeing cute coats with oversized pleather cuffs, I decided to change the full pleather sleeve to an almost half pleather sleeve (more like….3/8 pleather) of course that means that I don’t quite have enough fabric for the front facing, sadly.

My first muslin minus the sleeves started off swimmingly:


Please ignore the horrible hair. I don’t really care about that as I sew. I’m not June Cleaver. I sew in pajama pants with greasy hair. And then I post pics of myself in muslins with greasy hair, because that’s how I roll.

I did an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) for the princess seam using Mary from Idle Fancy’s tutorial. Seriously brilliant tutorial. The only issue with the muslin was that it became longer in the front than the back, but that’s fine. That’s just a hemming issue that will work itself out. It fit perfectly and was super flattering. I also had enough ease to accommodate bulky fabrics.


My piece after the FBA. It looks ridiculous. Are my boobs really that big? Yes, yes, they are.

I cut a size 22 for most pieces, but graded to a 24 on the two bust pieces as well as doing an FBA. I am not sure why I chose to do that, but it worked out perfectly. Why question a stroke of brilliance like that?

I was pretty confident at this stage. I didn’t have the sleeves on, but I was happy with this.

Enter the sleeves. I do a large bicep adjustment. I used T’s sleeve fitting adjustment on the Curvy Sewing Collective page and made three muslins for the sleeves. First time, they were not big enough in the bicep yet. I guess I had miscalculated the amount to add in. I should have done a tissue fitting. I also adjusted the muslin for the large cuff for the pleather accent. Basically, this involved just cutting the sleeve in half and adding in length and then sewing it back together. The second time, I did a tissue fitting and they still weren’t big enough. Also, they were too short for some bizarre reason even though the first ones weren’t and I didn’t make any length variations. Anyway, third time was a charm and they fit perfectly.

Then I remembered this post on Fashionable Stitch about fitting your body. Well, I tried crossing my arms across my bust and holy hell was that shit tighter than a…..I will stop there. It was tight. Take my word for it.

Slashy, slashy with my scissors I went.

Using Sunni’s method, I slashed and then slashed some more in various areas. This was me slashing my second muslin:


You can see all the cuts in the princess seams there where I needed to add in more and more fabric and the wedge at the center back where I had to remove fabric, because of course you can have narrow shoulders AND a wide back, right?! I think they call that a dowager hump, but I don’t have that problem in other garments! Anyway, three muslins later for the back, I had a complete muslin, yeay!!

More like: UGH! Fitting a coat is definitely a lot more involved than fitting a dress. You have to think of ease and the fact that your fabric will be very different from your muslin and account for the extra bulk. I’ve never had an issue with it being tight across the back with dresses, but with this coat I did. I’m not sure what the difference here was or why I needed to make all these unusual adjustments on the back, but I did. It’s a lot better now.


TaDa!!!!! Here is the final muslin in all it’s glory with a wonderful bathroom picture. It’s cinches in at the waist, you can spy the line where the pleather cuff is, and it fits my bustybust perfectly with the princess seams all in the perfect places.

I’m pretty stoked about this.

Reader, I cut my coat out:


A kleenex box is a totally legitimate pattern weight. I swear. You can see all the adjusted pattern pieces with all their weird shapes wedged in here and there. The wool was so easy to cut and the pleather was like cutting through buttah. I didn’t cut out the collar or the front facing yet. The collar will be in pleather and the front facing will likely be in the burgundy fleece, because I do not have enough of the wool for it, sadly. We’ll see how that works out. I also need to draft new lining pieces after all the alterations I made to the coat. I am not sure what to do for those, because all the lining pieces are so different from the outer pieces. For now, I am moving on to cutting out interfacing and fusing the interfacing on the wool, sewing the back up and drafting the back stay out of hair canvas using Gertie’s method (is it weird that I had some hair canvas in my stash?….yes, that is weird, especially when I don’t ever remember buying it at all, but there it was when I was reorganizing my sewing room and I was all…..what?! The fabric fairy, must have been the fabric fairy. Omg, please let there be a fabric fairy), and then sewing the rest of the coat up before I tackle the facing and other things.

If you want more information and tutorials on the wonderful world of coat making, check out Jenny’s list over at Cashmerette. It’s a really great link and I read everything there before starting. I also used Gertie’s sewing of Vogue 8346 for reference.

I have felt pretty good about the whole process even if the muslin took forever and fairly confident that the fit will be good. I do have some hesitations about the lining and the facing, but overall I can’t wait to see it finished. I will definitely not be finishing this coat in time for the end of FESA, though, but it feels good to have a significant start on it.

Other than that, I had a weekend of horrible sewing fails that I will talk about some day in the future (I’d like to have a sewing win with the patterns I tried out before I talk about the fails). I feel like taking comfort in an easy knit pattern that I’ve made before. I think a few more Jenna cardis to make me feel better. 🙂 And then maybe I will make up a Bluegingerdoll Betsy skirt or Violet dress. 😀

There is seriously not enough time for all my sewing plans. I think I need a sewing fairy.

Has anyone else ventured into the wonderful world of coat making?