Me-Made-May 2016 and Progress Report

I cannot believe it’s almost time for Me-Made-May’16. I feel like this year has flown by like crazy! In the past year my handmade wardrobe has expanded like crazy. I almost have no RTW garments left in my closet. Last year, I accomplished my goal of wearing at least one handmade garment a day. This year I am upping that this year!

‘I, Andie of https://sewprettyinpink.wordpress.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’16. I endeavour to wear at least three handmade garments each day for the duration of May 2016’

Three handmade garments a day! That can be easily accomplished I think, because I have a ton of new knickers! This weekend I made 13 more pairs of Barrie Briefs (shown below; there are two red pairs with black lace). I have over 20 pairs of handmade knickers in my wardrobe now. I am pretty proud of that.

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Along with all of these, my handmade bras and leggings end up being three pieces alone. I could actually pledge to wear four pieces…or even five… but I was already tripling my pledge from last year…

I am not making an extra pledge of making stuff during the month and I will not be posting my daily outfits on instagram either. Part of May is our honeymoon so I may not even be able to post half the month and I certainly don’t expect to finish much when I return, because I definitely expect to be exhausted when I return. I will take pictures, though, and post a round up at the end of the month. I will probably also report that I should have made the pledge of four or five pieces, because I have so much handmade stuff. ūüėČ

Our honeymoon is less than a month away and I am so incredibly excited. It snowed here in Toronto this weekend (10-15 cm!) and I teased myself by looking at the weather in Amsterdam. 15 degrees celcius! Curses! April should be better weather here.

Let’s talk an update on the honeymoon wardrobe:

Outerwear

My Waffle Patterns Pepernoot Coat¬†muslin has been made. I still need to make the final pattern alterations and cut it out in the final fabric. I expect to get that all done this week and start sewing. I will not be making the detachable fur trim until after the honeymoon, though. I won’t need that on a Spring coat.

Pants

I have one pair of Misty Jeans made along with my first version. I have two more cut out with fun pockets:

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Bonus makes: several pairs of leggings.

Tops

I will not be getting the Style Arc¬†Skye top done before I go. Just too many issues that are making me not want to sew it at all. I’ve decided to put it away for now.

I got the Eva top and Cate’s Cousin Top done. I also refashioned a dress into a top using the Jenna Cardi top hack.

I have some more to share in this category, but you have to wait a week for that. ūüėČ

Blazers/Cardigans

I made my Decades Everyday Three’s a Charm jacket last week and can’t wait to share. I didn’t take pictures this weekend as I had planned because the weather was terrible. Hopefully this week will allow for that. If not, I will have to take them inside. Here is the picture of the finished product I shared on IG for a preview.

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I would love to get one more of these done with the alterations I need to make, but I probably won’t get to that!

For cardigans, I have my Jenna cardi in blue merino.

Skirts

I will not be getting a Style Arc Candice Skirt done since my material was directional in the wrong direction. ūüė¶ D’oh! I’ll try out the pattern later once I find some good fabric.

I made two Tenterhook Pattern Snapdragon skirts. I wrote a review of the pattern on the Curvy Sewing Collective and it went up last week. Check it out.

I have three Cake Pavlova skirts cut out that I will get done at some point, too. I will be trying out some pleating details on them, too, and side-seam pockets.

Lingerie

I made several bras so far. I’d really like to get one more done using the pattern from the Prep School Bra and the blush bra tulle kit from Emerald Studio. We’ll see. I feel like two pairs of jeans, three skirts, and a coat will be enough for the next few weeks!

I made around 20 Barrie Briefs. Good amount for the trip!

I made one pair of Going Rogue socks and one pair of tights using part of that pattern and would love to make more, but I doubt I will have the time and I am running out of materials. That will wait until after the honeymoon.

To sum up…

What I made:

  1. 1 pair of pants
  2. Several pairs of leggings
  3. Three tops (plus a bonus amount of tops to be revealed next week!)
  4. 1 blazer
  5. 1 cardigan
  6. 2 skirts
  7. Several bras
  8. Over 20 knickers
  9. 1 pair of socks
  10. 1 pair of tights

(WTF, that’s a lot of stuff….)

What got shelved:

  1. Style Arc Skye Top
  2. Style Arc Candice Skirt

What is left to do:

  1. Two pairs of Misty Jeans
  2. Pepernoot Coat
  3. Three Pavlova Skirts
  4. One more bra (if I have time)

I better get back to sewing…phew…

 

Prep School Bra

I recently finished a bra that reminds me of a prep school blazer.

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Funny enough when I googled “prep school blazer” one popped up that was the exact blazer I had in mind when I put the colours for this bra together. I totally want to make a blazer like this sometime this year, too.

 

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Yellow and navy are one of my favourite colour combinations. Others include: white and orange, hot pink and black, dusty rose and brown, grey and mauve, orange and hot pink, turquoise and hot pink, white and cerulean blue. I could go on but I will stop there. You get the idea. I have some favourite colour combinations. Apparently a lot of them…

This bra is made with a new cloned bra pattern. I used a different Elomi bra this time. When I was buying RTW bras, I was a huge Elomi fan. They fit me almost perfectly and I found their sizing reliable. This bra has a split upper cup with the top part in a sheer cup lining. It makes the bra lines really nice. I had two of these bras left in rotation: black and beige. My main issue with the Elomi bras was the boring colours my local store had available in the humungo sizes I needed. Recently, I retired my beige bra after another tear in the powernet. It was three years old and worn very frequently. I used that bra to clone. I followed my usual method with the pins. Check out the tutorial here. Here is the original bra:

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I had some issues with the pattern. I guess I didn’t walk the lines of the pattern enough and had some mismatching. I’ll be sure to remedy that for the next version.

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My main fabric was a dark navy lace. It looks black in most of the pictures, but is navy blue. I used sheer cup lining from Arte Crafts to line the entire bra and for the upper cup. The sheer cup lining is nylon and needs a lower heat on your iron. It can be ironed on a low heat. I forgot to change my iron settings and melted the first two pieces I sewed. Easily cut out the pieces again and turned my iron down. Oops. The navy lace was horrible to sew with. I forgot how much I hate lace like that! It has heavy threads through the flowers and shapes to make them pronounced. My machine hated them and kept tangling the thread and eating the lace. I used a bit of a longer stitch and mostly remedied the issue, but found it was still occasionally catching. A ball point needle helped. I would have thought that a sharp would be better, but the ball point was better for this lace. The sheer cup lining on the other hand was a dream to sew with and went together very well. I used the ball point needle on it too and it worked really well. No catching or tangling or eating of the fabric whatsoever. I have to say the lining is amazing. It looks and feels exactly like the lining in the upper cup of my Elomi bra. I’m very impressed. I have this in white and black and think I might be lining all my bras from now on. For the lace bra, it does give extra support, but in any bra it would be a lovely finish.

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Other supplies I used are cream powernet and a blush hook/eye from Blackbird Fabrics, 3/4 strap/band elastic in white and rose gold rings/sliders from Arte Crafts and stashed yellow fold over elastic (from a shop on etsy that I can’t remember the name of and I am too lazy to look in my purchases from two years ago for…). The bows were purchased from eBay. Again too lazy to search for the seller. Both FOE and bows are easily found on those sites.

The straps and hook and eye went together a lot better. I’ve definitely stopped having trouble with those. Helps that I am being more vigilant about cleaning my machine. The switch to a zigzag stitch helps as well.

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I just love the yellow details. It makes the bra perfect for me.

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Let’s talk fit. The bra I cloned it from fit well but was a little bit small in the lower cup. I didn’t want to make an alteration to the pattern without trying it in this fabric. The bra fits okay, but it can definitely use more room in the lower cup to let the bridge sit against my chest.

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It definitely wearable, but not perfect. I do love that split upper cup. I think it makes a nice push up effect. It will look even better with a bit more room in the lower cup and a little shaved off the upper cup in the horizontal line. The apex does need to be moved slightly, but that will be taken care of when I add more into the lower cup.

I really love this bra and can’t wait to make the blush bra with Emerald Erin’s kit copying her Parisian bra. Mine won’t have as low of a front, but there will be a gathered upper cup. The whole thing will be lined with sheer cup lining in white so this was a great test for it.

Blush bra kit

In other news, I made new curtains for our kitchen:

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The material is a cerulean blue polyester. When the sun comes through this window, it makes the whole room look purple. It’s wonderful.

I also made several pairs of Barrie Briefs.

2 pairs of these:

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Made with leftover merino wool jersey. These are super soft knickers!

2 pairs of these:

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Same pink spandex material as the first pair but with mint lace this time.

1 pair of these:

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I used the cream lace leftover from my wedding dress, a wide black lace for the band and narrow black lace for the legs.

1 pair of these:

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Made with a poly spandex jersey and white lace. I also made some tights with the same material:

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Unfortunately, my toes tore through them on the second wear. Sharp toes, I guess… I do trim my nails… Anyway, I am planning on mending and reinforcing the toe. I’ll tell you more about the tights another day. I plan on making some more and talking about how to make them.

This weekend I am planning on working on my Three’s a Charm jacket. Hopefully that will be done and ready for review for you next week! ūüôā

Barrie Briefs

I know, I know….All I am sewing lately is lingerie. I swear I will get back to other kinds of sewing soon, but Lingerie Month at the Curvy Sewing Collective is consuming my life!

Shameless Plug: Check out my Cloning a bra post and my Bra Materials post.

Just an FYI, I hate the word “panties.” I have no idea why, but it makes me cringe like crazy. I feel like the mother in Dead Like Me with the word “moist.”¬†I guess in Canada we say underwear or underpants or even just pants. I don’t hear many people saying panties… Feel free to tease me endlessly in the comments with the word panties! Hhahaha. I’m sure several of my friends will do this in person after they read this post. I love my friends.

I say knickers like I am British. Point of fact, my father was born in Leeds. I am half British. Therefore, I say  knickers.

I’ve made some knickers before in a few different ways:

  1. Cloned a pair of RTW knickers
  2. Sewed the So, Zo free knickers pattern
  3. Sewed the Cloth Habit free Rosy Ladyshorts

For whatever reason, none of these options worked well for me. Crotch length too short, crotch length too long, butt not big enough, knickers fell down, elastic wore out too fast, and fabric didn’t have good recovery. Those last two are more about fabric/notion choices than anything. Both the free patterns were great, but just didn’t work for me.

Things I learned from several failed knickers:

  1. I hate elastic on my knickers. It cut in. It was irritating. It got stretched out. I do, however, like stretch lace and find that to be comfortable and have good recovery.
  2. I needed a low rise front to accommodate my belly, but with a fuller bum. I knew I would have to make a full bum adjustment.
  3. I needed to choose better fabric.

Enter the Barrie Briefs. The positive part of this pattern is the bands on the legs and the top. The top band could easily be replaced by a band of lace. But the leg bands…. to die for. I knew they would be a winner! They are so comfortable.

I heard the pattern ran large. It is made for a 20% stretch knit. My knit was 100%. Some magic mushroom¬†told me that I should cut a size 3 to start….. Um….. wtf, Andie?! Obviously too small.

I cut a size 8 next with a full bum adjustment and an inch on the front sides added and they fit perfectly.

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They took 30 min to make including cutting them out.

Edit: The fabric is a lightweight poly spandex stretch with a cotton jersey crotch inset.

Not much else to say except that I am happy to finally have a pattern to work from. Now comes making all the knickers in all the colours!

TL:DR Review

  • Pattern:¬†Kitchy Koo’s Barrie Briefs
  • Pros:¬†Bands for the legs and waist with the option to use lace.
  • Cons:¬†Made for 20% stretch fabric, which is kind of odd and causes some complaints about the pattern running too large. Size way down if you are using a stretchier material.
  • Make again?:¬†YES! ALL THE KNICKERS!
  • Rating: pink-star-black-md¬†pink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-md5/5 stars