Ellie & Mac South Shore Romper

Since making my Seamwork Sky Jumpsuit, I  have been thinking about making another in a knit fabric. In all honesty, I wanted the Paper Theory Zadie jumpsuit since seeing so many incredible versions on Instagram, but it was out of my price range so it will have to wait until I have more money coming in since I am unemployed. I got the Ellie & Mac South Shore Romper on sale instead. I love the faux wrap bodice and figured the knit fabric would make it comfortable.

I made size 3XL with no alterations in shorts length with short sleeves. It’s not a perfect fit. Both back and front crotch need some work, but it is comfortable. It kind of reminds me of the onesies I’ve made in terms of comfort.

I think the bodice fit is pretty good. The sleeves could use a slight full bicep adjustment as I find them difficult to get off for the bathroom.

My main issue with the romper are the pockets. 1) They are drafted far too small! Readers, you know how this irks me. So you also know how I sized them up before sewing. Of course! 2) They don’t really sit nicely. So if I make this again, I will change the pockets so that the tops of the pocket bags are sewn into the waist seam to give them a bit more stability in a knit fabric. I have some other minor issues with the drafting. Sleeves are cut on the fold. I know personally this type of sleeve doesn’t tend to fit me well and always causes a bit of excess fabric in the front since I have a big bust. It can work for some people to have sleeves cut on the fold, but not me. Not being a pattern drafter, I think I will just somehow graft the sleeve of another knit shirt that fits the way I want on to this one and change the shape of the armsyce to fit better.

All in all, though, I really like the romper. It was exactly what I wanted for this pineapple cotton lycra and for a warm weather comfort wear. 🙂

TL:DR Review

  • Pattern: Ellie & Mac South Shore Romper
  • Pros: Great size range. Many options for sleeves and lengths with an optional tie.
  • Cons: Pockets too small and don’t sit right so they would benefit from a redraft so that the top of the pockets are caught in the waist seam. Sleeve cut on fold doesn’t work for me.
  • Make again?: Yes. I’ve been wearing it non-stop since making it.
  • Rating: pink-star-black-md pink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-md 3.5/5 stars

Designer Stitch Pippa Wrap top

I cut out this top LAST YEAR. Not even like in December. It was shortly after I made the tropical M7624 which Miss Bossy, you, voted for making. I said I would make the Pippa dress, however, turns out that I didn’t have enough fabric for a dress so instead I made a top. A few people will finally be happy that I made this though. Hahah.

The pattern is the Designer Stitch Pippa wrap dress and top. I cut out a size 10. The main issue with cutting out a top and then sewing it a year later is that sometimes our measurements change in that amount of time and things don’t quite fit the way they should. I’ve not changed much in my bust measurement but my stomach has changed a bit. This is one of those cases where I should probably have made a muslin first, but I made it work. My bust measurement puts me in a size 11, but my stomach and hip measurements put me outside the measurement chart. Like where Artax is after he sinks into the swamp of sadness. Yes, I just watched that video and cried a lot. Artttttaxxxxx. Um….moving on…

I didn’t make any changes to the pattern before cutting it out.

As you can see, I needed to wear a top underneath since the bust is too small. Even given the size change, though, that bust is definitely drafted for a cup size smaller than mine. If I were to make changes for another version, I would definitely choose to do an FBA on the size 10 instead of sizing up since the shoulders are wide already. I may even use a size 8 shoulder and then grade out.

The fabric I used is thrifted cotton dot. Not the greatest picture but it does show the texture. The dots are printed on with a puffy feel to them.

It’s cute fabric.

I added a ruffle to the bottom of the top since as drafted, the top is actually pretty short. And that’s coming from a short-waisted person here.

 

I’m sort of over wrap dresses like this, though. What do I mean? Well, the closure on right side is a button and a piece of elastic loop rather than a tie that goes through a hole and then ties around. I’m not sure what it is about these types of wrap dresses and tops that I hate but I never like how insecure they feel on me. A wrap dress with the tie just feels better to me. It might just be me or maybe it’s because my bust is so big that I feel like snaps and buttons don’t quite contain it. Hahah. Not to brag or anything. HA!

I’m really into how I styled it with the white tank dress (made using the Concord t-shirt pattern). It’s super cute. But the big question is will I make the pattern again. Honestly probably not. I know the pattern could easily be altered to be the type of wrap dress I like, but the fit issues (big shoulders, needing an FBA, etc.) combined with how much fabric it required… Well I am just not really up for that. I love the result of this look, but I’m not sure how else I would style this top.

TL:DR Review

  • Pattern: Designer Stitch Pippa wrap dress and top
  • Pros: Okay size range (could definitely be better, but points for going to a 52″ bust). Cute style. Love the sleeves.
  • Cons: Drafted for a small bust for sure since there isn’t much fullness in the front and a pretty wide back and shoulders for the size. To me, when the shoulders are like that, it’s a drafting issue for larger sizes. Disagree with me. That’s okay, but shoulders and back don’t change too much due to fat so they don’t need to be too wide. Not a fan of the type of wrap it is at all… Buttons and pieces of elastic do not make Andie feel secure and probably send her to the swamp of sadness.
  • Make again?: Probably not.
  • Rating: pink-star-black-md pink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-md 3.5/5 stars

 

Fancy Pants and Burda Sweater

 

Today I am sharing two newer garments I made in January: Style Arc Misty Jeans in a houndstooth doubleknit fabric and the Off the Shoulder Sweater from Burda issue 09/2018 in a turquoise hacci knit.

There isn’t much to say about the Misty Jeans. I’ve made them several times before. The only difference with these ones is the material. The fit is okay, but the material grows over the day so I needed to take in the waistband a bit. The doubleknit is a wool blend. Possibly blended with vicose or rayon since the material is super soft and doesn’t have great recovery like most rayon/viscose blends I’ve used. If I took the pants in, though, to account for the poor recovery, they would be tight on first wear for a couple of hours. I’m just accepting it. They are soft pants and super warm for winter so I’m not super concerned about them growing as the day goes on. With the waistband a bit tighter, it keeps them in place.

 

I made these for the #sewfancypants challenge on IG. The challenge was a lot of fun. It got me to finally make more pants.

The Burda sweater is lovely with these pants. I made size 52, the largest size. The pattern fits large. I find that about most Burda patterns, though. While I am a bit outside of the measurements for 52, I don’t have an issue fitting into it. I usually do an FBA but didn’t feel the sweater would need that and it doesn’t. It has an oversized look which is perfect for a cowl neck sweater. I am not really into off the shoulder sweaters so I am wearing this as a cowl neck. TBH I would also need to increase the size of the cowl to not have trouble getting it into an off the shoulder look. It’s a bit tight due to my bust size and the length from my nape to my full bust not being very long. Otherwise, the cowl just pops up and becomes a cowl again.

 

The sweater is hella long, though. We’re talking might as well be a dress long. I shortened it by 5-6 inches and then lopped off another 4 and even made a hem band with some of the length. HELLA LONG. I get I am 5’3″ but like….sometimes plus size drafting is way too long and Burda is pretty guilty of that. It’s possibly drafted for a 6 foot person in length!

 

BUT the arms are short. What? I didn’t notice because the model’s arms are scrunched up so it’s tough to see that the arms are shorter. I usually have to shorten arms not add long bands so they are long-sleeved. I don’t understand a cowl neck sweater with shorter sleeves… I want a sweater with long sleeves. I want to be cozy af.

Other than those issues of confusion, the sweater is great. I love the oversized cowl and the shape. It’s a lovely cozy sweater in a gorgeous turquoise/teal colour.

 

The sweater actually completes one of my make nine items. Yay!

TL:DR Review

  • Pattern: Off the Shoulder Sweater from Burda issue 09/2018
  • Pros: I love the final result! Even though I am a bit outside the size 52 measurements, it fits well.
  • Cons: Super long length and then weirdly short arms.
  • Make again?: I would. However, it required a lot of fabric even after shortening it quite a bit so I won’t be making it again any time soon since I don’t have enough fabric.
  • Rating: pink-star-black-md pink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-md  3.5/5 stars

Itch to Stitch Belize Shorts

I’ve been sewing a lot all of May but haven’t had the time to take any pictures. I’m hoping to get the rest of my UFOs done in the next couple of weeks so that I can move on to my summer sewing plans.

I finished the Belize shorts from Itch to Stitch on May 20th, but I started them last September. Initially, I had graded up 2 sizes to accommodate my hips, but when I tried them on they were too large overall.

I took out the waistband, the side seams, the leg seams and the crotch seam and sewed it back together much smaller. I took out about 5 inches overall. Sadly, that was about 1 inch too much in the back. When I tried them on again, I found the back was a smidge too tight. I also found both the front and back rise were too high at the centre. The back rise needs about an inch taken out at the centre back and the front needs about 2 inches taken out at the centre front.

There are some major fit tweaks to get this right, but I actually quite like the shorts. The length is perfect and the crotch doesn’t ride up too much while I am walking. Not that I’ve done much walking to test this, because it’s not really shorts weather here yet much to my chagrin.

The fabric I used is a hot pink stretch denim. Leftover from a Snapdragon skirt ages ago.

Itch to Stitch Belize Shorts

Itch to Stitch Belize Shorts

Itch to Stitch Belize Shorts

Itch to Stitch Belize Shorts

Itch to Stitch Belize Shorts

TL:DR Review

  • Pattern: Itch to Stitch Belize Shorts
  • Pros: Love the the flat waistband at front with the elastic waistband back. I like the variety of looks with the pattern and the skort option.
  • Cons: A good size range, but I do subtract meanly for having to grade up a couple of sizes and then needing to grade down. Makes me not trust size charts!
  • Make again?: I might… To be honest, I kind of feel like I found a good casual short pattern with the Oceanside shorts. I also have two other shorts patterns in progress. I doubt I will come back to this pattern this year.
  • Rating: pink-star-black-md pink-star-black-mdpink-star-black-mdhalf-star-black-md3.5/5 stars