I started becoming obsessed with Simplicity 1459 when Tanya posted her two versions. The striped version got into my head and I basically just wanted to recreate that, but I restrained myself from buying a navy and white striped cotton and decided to sew from my stash like the good stashbuster I am (trying to be). I did, however, immediately find an etsy seller with the pattern and add it to my pattern hoard like a good little hoarding dragon.
Replace Smaug with me and gold with patterns and this is a good depiction of my life
I got it around Christmas and planned out what I wanted to do: create a navy and white gingham sleeveless version with solid white collar and buttons. THAT’S TOTALLY DIFFERENT FROM WHITE AND NAVY STRIPES EVERYONE! TOTALLY DIFFERENT!
Okay, so I am copy cat. One of my middle names is appropriately Katherine….so I am a Kat by name. 😉
But the point is that I didn’t buuuuy fabric for this project, right? Right.
Enough of that. I am going to talk about my dress now.
I did my usual fit adjustments for the flat pattern. I use my high bust measurement to determine the size I use and then adjust the bust with a full bust adjustment based on how much extra I need plus ease. I also did a small narrow shoulder adjustment and then just cut into my fabric, because that’s how I roll.
Technically, this is a wearable muslin. The fit isn’t perfect. The bust dart needs some tweaking as there are drag lines under the bust dart, possibly as a result of it being too high. I also need to do more of a narrow shoulder adjustment, because there is blousing above the bust, but also redraw the armhole a little larger.
I got the fabric at the thrift store, both the white cotton and the gingham, months ago on separate occasions. I managed to get *just* enough of the gingham to make it. I didn’t attempt to do any pattern matching on the skirt for two reasons: 1) lack of fabric and 2) the amount of gathers in the fabric make the pattern matching a little pointless. I did, however, do okay at pattern matching on the bodice. Not perfect, but good enough.
Full disclosure: I actually really am not great at installing zippers in garments. So, please be kind at this detail of the zipper. It’s not perfect by any means, but it’s getting there. I got better at skirt zippers with my dirndl skirts and better at jacket zippers with all the jackets I’ve been making lately, but dress zippers are a whole different thing and I don’t have a lot of practice at them. I hand-basted this one in place, which made a world of difference. But it was still difficult as there is so much fabric in this dress. I hope that by the time the summer ends I can be more of an expert in dress zippers. I have upped my skills in so many ways this year. Every time I see a gap in what I can do, I always want to get rid of it.
I used my pinking shears for the first time with this project! My mom got them for me for Christmas along with a tailor’s ham. I requested both and she sent me her old iron, which I use constantly now. I love the pinking edges as a pretty inside finish. It really adds to the vintage feel of the dress for me.
The pattern calls for facings on the collar, button, and on the sleeves. I found that the collar facing doesn’t sit very well at the back. I might need to make tweaks to the collar for future versions, because it sits awkwardly on me and not flat. Possibly as a result of the narrow shoulder adjustment? I am not sure. Any suggestions to fix that issue?
The collar is also not perfectly sewn, but it’s good enough for me…this time…
I left the facings off the sleeve, because of the issue with the collar. I decided to make bias tape and finish the arms that way. I prefer that look.
Here is my photoshoot:
My next version is in this gorgeous fabric:
Navy polkadot on white cotton fabric. It’s a silky soft medium weight cotton that I picked up in my favourite higher end fabric store a couple of years ago and have been hoarding along with two light weight rayons from the same store.
I wish you could feel this fabric! It’s so lovely to touch.
In other news, I am obsessed with this dress from Unique Vintage after seeing it on Migg Mag, one of my fav plus size fashion blogs:
She’s so fricken adorable.
I can see a mint cambie in my future! Come to me, my pretty.
TL:DR Review
- Pattern: Simplicity 1459
- Pros: Vintage style, large gathered skirt, beautiful collar
- Cons: Not a fan of the collar facing and find it flips up in the back. Took out the sleeve facing because I was worried about the flipping around there, as well.
- Make again?: Absolutely! I plan on making it with a navy polkadot on white fabric, because I can’t get enough of the navy/white combo.
- Rating:
5/5 stars
I think that dress looks great on you. Very flattering!
Thanks so much!! 🙂 🙂
Looks great! Really interested in seeing the polka dot version, I love polka dots!
Also that last Simplicity pattern: Love it!!!!
Sorrt, I meant the Unique Vintage… whoops! 🙂
Thanks, Danielle! I am excited to make that polkadot version. It’s such a lovely fabric. 🙂
That dress looks so cute! I love the gingham and collar and I think your zip looks great too!
Thanks, Lara! 😀
Uuuuu!! Seems like the dress fits pretty well! 🙂
The mint Cambie sounds adorable!!
Thanks so much! I cannot get the idea of a mint cambie out of my head. So it will have to happen after the wedding. 😀
Superb! Good luck with the wedding btw! 🙂 I can’t wait to see the pictures of it and of the dress! 😉
Aaaah…navy and white always looks so fresh- one of my personal favourites. Zip looks fine, and fortunately the gingham hides it well 🙂
I agree about navy and white. So fresh. 🙂 Thank goodness the gingham hides the wonky sewing in some places. Still my best dress zipper. There’s a reason I like shirt dresses. 😉 No zippers!
Love, love, LOVE! You can’t go wrong with a retro shirtwaist in gingham! I’m glad it worked out for you. So adorable! And a mint cambie? Splendid! I actually have a lime green gingham one planned, but don’t know when I will get to it. In all honesty, I have yet to wear my striped shirtwaist. I made it when it was cold and its been hanging in my closet. I think it’s going to have to come out for a stroll this weekend!
Thanks so much, Tanya. Oooh, yes, you will have to take that striped version for a stroll. 🙂
Lime green gingham!! Oh my! That will look so good! 🙂
We should have a green theme!
I love it! 🙂 I don’t have enough green in my wardrobe!
Let me know and we can set up a deadline after your wedding! 😉
I really enjoyed making my Cambie, so good luck! But DEFINITELY muslin it after your FBA, because at least when I made it, I end up having to make a lot of tweaks and would not have been that happy with the dress had I not muslined a few times. I kept the side-bust dart added by the FBA because rotating it all to the waist dart made it look odd. I also had to shorten the length of the side darts pretty significantly.
Thanks for the tips, Nicole. I definitely wouldn’t skip the muslin step with the cambie. I need to grade up the pattern and then do the FBA and narrow shoulder adjustment. I think it will be a three muslin job. So, not until after the wedding! 🙂
Shush with all the ‘this and that isn’t perfect’. It is most definitely perfect, I love it!
Thanks so much, Rosie. 😀 😀
This dress is just lovely Andie, and it fits your personality so well. The polka dots are gonna be great too!!!
Thanks so much, Alicia! I want to make that polkadot version now. 😀
I liked this dress even before it was finished, when you showed the fabric and buttons on IG, or have I dreamt it? I think it firs really well and I love the collar,I’ve said before but it amazes me how well this style of dresses fit you. It will look like a sack on me. I have the same problem with most of my back collars and haven’t managed to solve it. But still gorgeous you and the dress!! xxx
You didn’t dream it! I definitely posted on IG. 🙂 Thanks so much, darling! ❤ And I doubt a dress would ever look like a sack on you! You're so gorgeous you'd make a sack look like an evening gown! 😀
Haha! You are too kind, thank you for the compliment 🙂 I’m tempted now to buy the pattern hehe!!
Super cute and so you (you know, based on what I know about you from the interwebs ;)). Cant wait to see another version!
Thanks so much and it’s true! It’s definitely me. 😀 I’m not very different in real life than on the interwebs. Definitely more swearing in real life. 😉
What a lovely dress! The gingham looks absolutely lovely. I also would not have bothered to match the stripes on the skirt- no point with how full and luscious the skirt is!
As for the back facing, I would redraft because of the shoulder adjustment. I imagine it’s too big and causes bulk in the back neck.
Annnddd for the zipper, I’m always disappointed in my own zipper insertions that I completely understand! It’s gotten to the point where I do hand-picked zippers only and have come to love that process instead. I don’t have time to insert and reinsert and REINSERT a zipper repeatedly because I mess it up on the sewing machine.
Great job!
Thanks so much, Bianca! I just spied your Spring for Cotton dress. It’s so pretty! 🙂 😀 I’ll comment there shortly. I need to read the whole entry. 🙂
You’re tip is perfect and makes so much more sense. I’ll adjust the back facing. I can’t believe I didn’t think of that. Definitely a SMH moment. 😉
I go back and forth between handpicking, which I love and find so much easier, and sewing the zipper by machine. I just keep thinking sewing the zipper by machine should be easier, but really handpicking is far better!
I’m the exact same way about zippers! I go from “this should be a piece of cake!”– and then I see my results and have pouty face. I’ve just given up now!
Can’t wait to see your next version of this pattern!
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There is nothing at all wrong with that dress; including the collar. It looks marvelous on you. Great job!
Thanks so much! 🙂
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